Margaret River Snapshots – Picnics

Who doesn’t like a good picnic? When the weather is fine and you just want to be outdoors, why not grab a quick lunch and head out.

We carry a comprehensive picnic set at all times in the ute, and with the fridge as well, picnics are made easy. Just grab some food and head off, knowing that everything else is already in the car.

Recently, we have often spent a morning at the beach, then retired to a nice shady spot for a picnic lunch. Down here in Margs, some of the best picnic spots just happen to be in wineries! And most of them are happy for Molly to share in the fun.

Hopefully we’ll have some local olives and cheeses to nibble on, before enjoying a crusty roll from the Margaret River Bakery. Some local crisp apples finish off a tasty and healthy lunch. Of course, a glass of the wineries finest is always an essential part of any winery picnic. And if we sneak off after lunch for a tasting and buy a couple of bottles, the lunch wine is usually free!

Lunch at one of our favourites – Redgate Winery

Lunch at Windows Estate

The Margaret River Region

Followers of my blog will know that Deb and I are in love with the Margaret River region, and in fact plan to settle here when we finish our full time travelling. Over the next few weeks, I’m going to share with you some of the things we love about this region, and what we get up to when we are here. But first, today’s blog is an over view of the Margaret River Region for those of you unfamiliar with it.

The Margaret River region is located in the very SW corner of the continent and faces the Indian Ocean to the West and the Southern Ocean to the south. It generally refers to the area between Cape Leeuwin in the south and Cape Naturaliste in the north. The distance between the Capes is 130km, a figure Deb and I know well as we walked the “Cape To Cape” track in 2012! Locals refer to this area as the “Capes”, but most people just call it Margaret River.

Running north-south along the coast between the Capes is the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, a geological formation of limestone and basalt that gives the area it’s characteristic spectacular coastline, it’s network of underground limestone caves and it’s rich soil, perfectly suitable for growing wine grapes.  Much of the region was originally covered in spectaculer Karri and Jarrah forest before being cleared for farming. There are still significant pockets of these old forests, particularly in the south at Boranup. The Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park includes these forests and hugs much of the coastline between the Capes.

Karri trees in the Boranup Forest

Half way between the two capes, about 50km from each, lies the actual Margaret River, and on it’s banks sits the eponymously named town of Margaret River.  The town is the main commercial centre for the region. It’s a busy town, especially on weekends, when tourists flock to the region. It has dozens of accommodation venues, ranging from 5 star apartments and resorts to backpacker hostels, as well as cafes and restaurants.

Some of the other towns in the region include Augusta in the south, a very small fishing community situated on the pretty Blackwood River, which was the first town settled in the area. Gracetown is a pretty, small beachside village on the coast north of Margaret River. It’s well known as a surfing town with excellent surfing at a number of breaks near the town. It is also, unfortunately, well known as the location of the Gracetown Disaster, a rockfall that killed 9 people sitting on the beach watching a surf carnival in 1996. Cowaramup is a small village north of Margaret River and is a growing residential area. It has attracted many tourists by calling itself “Cowtown” and has 42 fibreglass cows located around the town and cow themed shops. Yallingup is a resort town in the north, on the coast, is popular with surfers and has many weekend holiday homes. It’s also the home of Caves House, built in 1903 to accommodate visitors to nearby Niggli Cave. Rebuilt in 1938 after a fire, it became an iconic “surfers” pub in the 1970’s and 80’s. Dunsborough is the northern most township in the region, and the closest to Perth. It is located on the beautiful shores of Geographe Bay and is the holiday destination of Perth’s wealthy social set with chic , and expensive, cafes and boutiques. It’s not a town we visit often!

Yallingup Beach

This section of Australia’s coast was first sighted by the Dutch in the early 1600’s when the Dutch East Indies VOC galleon Leeuwin discovered and mapped the coast. The prevalance of french names in the area is a result of Nicholas Baudin’s explorations and mapping in 1801, in the ships Naturaliste (captained by Baudin)  and Geographe (captained by Hamelin). It wasn’t until the 1830’s that Europeans settled in the Augusta region. Shortly after convicts were sent to the area to cut Jarrah timber for export, but it was not initially profitable. Later, in the 1870’s, with government support, the timber industry boomed and huge swathes of the dense Karri forests in the south were cut down and exported to England. Meanwhile, the first settlers had arrived in Margaret River where the Bussell family built their home at Ellenbrook. The town of Margaret River grew to support the timber industry and the gradually expanding farmlands.

In the 1920’s the Government started the “Group Settlement Scheme” to encourage out of work soldiers from the UK to settle in the area and start clearing the land to develop dairy farms, in order to reduce the states dependence on imported dairy produce from the East Coast. Although ultimately unsuccessful due to the harsh conditions and the immigrants lack of farming skills, the scheme did form the nucleus of today’s successful dairying industry in the South West. Further attempts were made after WW2 to encourage soldier settlers. These were more successful, and a strong farming economy developed.

In the 1960’s vines were first planted and by the late 1970’s a world class wine region had developed. Around this time, the local beaches became a magnet for surfers from around Australia and the world: the secret was out that Margaret River had some of the best surf in Australia and a long association developed between the surfers and the local area.

Cabernet Grapes at Vasse Felix

By the 2000’s the tourist industry had expanded significantly and was attracting interstate and international visitors. The region was now competing on a large scale with some of the best tourist destinations in Australia. It has become famous for its wines, quality foods, surf, bush walks, mountain bike trails and majestic scenery.  Perth residents have always recognised the potential of “Margs”, as they affectionately call it , and many of them still regularly make the trip down here for a weekend getaway or a summer holiday.

So that’s a quick overview of the region.  We love the region and enjoy exploring it’s many treasures. Something we really love about Margs is the mix of people who call this region home. Farmers, winemakers, chefs, gourmands, hippies, eco warriors, surfers, backpackers and retirees all blend together to make a community that is vibrant and modern, whilst retaining a solid rural backbone. Keep an eye out for my next blogs as we explore the region.

Tale of two markets: Parap and St Kilda

It’s mid July in Darwin, a typically sunny, clear day.  Even though it’s early, the sun is already hot, as I wend my way through Darwin’s dissonant suburbs to get to Parap. If Darwin was to have a Prahan, as unlikely as that sounds, then it would be Parap. Close to the city with a small but excellent collection of boutiques, gourmet shops and expensive apartments. It’s also the location of my favourite Darwin Market.

When I arrive, I’m assaulted by the sights, sounds and smells that are so typically Darwin. Everything is bright, from the lurid displays of tropical fruits and vegetables to the eclectic stall holders and market attendees. Everyone is dressed to suit, shorts, singlets and thongs adorn every attendee. There is a smattering of well dressed tourists, but Parap is essentially a locals market. The sound of a didgeridoo wafts over from the carpark and an indigenous man beats out a monotonous tune on his clap sticks. People are laughing and smiling, life is good! But the smell…………Asian street food, sweet mango smoothies and freshy brewed coffee pervade the air. Locals sit around at tables enjoying a rejuvenating laksa and iced coffee after last nights excesses.

Wandering around I purchase some of the delicious offerings. At the Juicy Mango store, the old Timorese proprieter smiles her crooked smile and offers me a tub of freshly sliced mango. Her team of old Timorese ladies work diligently behind the store, slicing and dicing sweet mangos all day. They are all happy and laughing. At the Laksa store (winner of “Best Market Laksa in Darwin for 2017”), the queue is 20 deep as locals line up to avail themselves of a spicy hot laksa, made to order. “You want chilli? Lots of chilli? Good for you….” The old toothless Thai lady spends her day pounding green paw paw salad , whilst smiling happily at the passing parade. She too asks if you want more chilli as she adds spoonfuls of fiery hot chillis to her pestle and mortar. The Phillipine owner of the vegetable store is adorned with frangipani flowers in her hair and happily fills your shopping bag with exotic food stuffs that you won’t find anywhere down south. Old men sell elaborate orchids, hippies offer massages and all the while there is a happy buzz around the market. The choice of Asian street food is overwhelming, stuffed chicken wings, thai pork balls, nasi goreng, sushi, spring rolls, authentic dim sims………

Around the corner you can find crafts, paintings, local photographs, clothing etc. There is something for everyone, but the food is undoubtedly the star attraction.

Colourful Sliced fruit to go

This old lady spends all day making green paw paw salad with her pestle and mortar

Colours of Parap

 

Fast forward 6 months and it’s two days before Christmas in Melbourne. I’m again up early to get to the St Kilda Primary School monthly Farmers Market in Balaclava. It’s cool as I walk down Brighton Rd, past old Art Deco apartments and gorgeous Edwardian homes in various states of renovation. Last nights discarded takeaway adorns the footpaths and outside the Grosevnor pub someone has bought up the days takings on the grass. I arrive at the market to find many store holders still setting up. I expected it to be busy today, but maybe the  frowds will build as the morning progresses.

There is a very different feel here. It’s much more serious.  People are dressed more fomally. Hipsters set up stores selling organic walnuts, kombucha and organic eggs. The Bee Man tries to convince me to buy his West Australian Jarrah honey, which has a much higher MGO rating (measuring anti bacterial properties) than Manuka honey. But at $65 a 300gram jar I politely decline. Apples are $6 a kg, strawberries $5 punnet. I get talking to a very friendly Italian artisan cheesemaker while I taste his offerings of traditional mozzarella and its clones. Really beautiful cheeses and I oblige him and buy a few samples. The elderley smokehouse man tells me all about his imported pellet grill and he relieves of some more of my cash for some beautiful smoked chicken. There is beautiful sourdough, lamb bacon, iced tea, pickles etc

The crowd gradually builds, young families buying the veggies for Christmas, organic vegans seriously debating the acceptability of the offerings and hipsters buying organic soy lattes. It doesnt feel as relaxed as Parap. The shop keepers are bright and happy but for the buyers it’s a very serious business.

The Bee Man

Pickles, Terrines and Pates

Beautiful Sourdough

Kombucha and Keffir drinks

Both markets are great and they both reflect their home cities perfectly:

Relaxed, colourful and vibrant Darwin.  Conservative, classy and trendy Melbourne.